Basics of Blown-In Attic Insulation: Is it necessary to insulate the attic?
Which is the best kind to go with? Let’s concentrate on two specific kinds. Blown in attic insulation and batt are the two types. There are advantages and disadvantages to each type. Nevertheless, which is your best option? That is up to you, but we will provide information to help you make that choice.
Blown in attic insulation is the best choice you have if you’re only concerned about cost. This model’s ease of installation is yet another advantage. This kind typically makes use of two different kinds of materials. Fiberglass and cellulose are both of them. Fiberglass is the material of choice right now. Typically, the installation takes between one and two hours.
A blowing machine hose is used to begin the typical installation of blown in attic insulation in the far corner of your attic. A truck typically houses this machine. An entire uniform layer of insulation will be applied by the installer to your attic.
Keep in mind that batt insulation will cost more to install than blown in attic insulation. It has some benefits as well. Fiberglass batt insulation is the most common type of insulation. Cotton fiber is a less common type. Clearly, fiberglass is not a healthier option than cotton.
Fiberglass batt insulation is installed directly on the floor of the attic or between the attic’s ceiling joints. If you ever need to do any work in the attic, this type’s ease of removal is one of its most popular benefits.
The R-element of batt is somewhat better compared to blown loft protection. The R-factor of this kind of insulation will vary depending on the thickness that is blown in.
The fact that blown in attic insulation covers everything is one of the best advantages over batt insulation; whereas the batt type may have open areas.
There are a variety of advantages and disadvantages to each type of attic insulation. The energy efficiency of a home is greatly influenced by it. In point of fact, the majority of building scientists concur that the attic ought to be the initial “target” area for upgrades to air-sealing and insulation. The majority of homes are constructed with attic insulation levels far below current U.S. Department of Energy recommendations, which are required by code. of Power.
There are a variety of options available to homeowners considering upgrading their attic insulation. Every storage room protecting choice enjoys particular benefits and restrictions. Choosing the best upgrade to your attic’s insulation can be made easier if you know these benefits and drawbacks.
Insulation made of fiberglass batts is popular due to its low cost and universal availability. Fiberglass batts are used to insulate attics in many homes, regardless of age. Unfaced batts are more prevalent in attic installations than faced batts, and the batts are typically installed between attic floor joists.
PROS: More reasonable than different kinds of storage room protection. Best insulation for do-it-yourselfers to install. Batts, like lights and ceiling-mounted vent fans, can be moved to gain access to the ceiling below, unlike blown insulation. When blown insulation is added to an attic, the attic’s overall R-value can often be increased without changing the batt insulation.
CONS: Challenging to introduce accurately around hindrances. Insulation-deficient voids result in significant energy loss. In most areas of the country, multiple layers of batt insulation are required to achieve the recommended R-values; Because of this, storage can’t be done in the attic unless special platforms are built before insulation is put in. Insulation made of fiberglass can’t stop airflow.
Blown insulation There are two main kinds of blown insulation, also known as blow-in insulation: cellulose and fiberglass with a loose fill. Both are made to be installed with specialized blowing tools.
PROS: Installation can be finished quickly and for a reasonable price. In most cases, blown insulation provides a more thorough coverage than fiberglass batts do.
CONS: A layer of insulation that is at least 16 inches thick for northern parts of the United States) is required, making it impossible to store anything in the attic unless special platforms are built before the insulation is installed. Insulation made of cellulose and fiberglass with loose fill cannot stop air movement.
Spray foam An attic is typically insulated by professional spray foam insulation contractors by applying a thick layer of spray foam between the rafters. There are two kinds of foam used: open-cell and shut cell. Closed-cell spray foam is used more frequently in attic installations, despite differing opinions regarding which type is best.
PROS: The spray foam with closed cells has the highest R-value per inch. about R-6) of any loft protection. Additionally, it creates a barrier against moisture and air, removing the need for additional air-sealing work. Protecting underneath the rooftop deck rather than on the loft floor opens up loft space for capacity and different purposes. The efficiency of attic HVAC components like air handlers and ductwork is also improved by this strategy.
CONS: Most costly upper room protection. The underside of the roof sheathing may rot if a thick layer of foam is applied, trapping moisture.
Rigid foam Until a recent development, rigid foam had not been used as frequently for attic insulation. A proprietary rigid foam panel is attached to the underside of attic rafters in one innovative system to create an air and thermal barrier.
PROS: maintains attic ventilation in addition to offering all of the advantages of spray foam. Moisture damage to roof sheathing is no longer a possibility. Another advantage over spray foam is that the rigid foam has a radiant barrier that reflects heat, resulting in additional energy savings.
CONS: Due to its limited availability, the system is not as widely available as spray foam. The price of installation is comparable to that of spray foam, but it is higher than that of fiberglass batts and blown insulation.